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Dry the potato peelers! Potato peelings are a rich source of starch, which is so necessary for currants. From it, its berries grow to the size of a cherry.

Therefore, make it a rule not to throw away the potato peel, but to collect, dry and store until the right time.

By the way, the cleaning dries perfectly on the battery or simply laid out in one layer on the windowsill. It is better to store them in cloth bags.

All spring and summer, bury dry potato peelings under bushes or brew them with boiling water, and use the cooled broth for watering currants.
Potato peelings can also be used as a fertilizer when planting cabbage and cucumbers. To do this, they are soaked and crushed into a pulp. When preparing the holes, "potato porridge" is laid on the bottom, sprinkled with earth from above, and then seedlings are planted.

Like any gardener, I began to think about how to get the maximum yield from the minimum area.

The task of collecting from 1 sq.m to 8 kg of onion feathers seemed unattainable at first glance, but I came up with something. I decided to make a vertical bed. To do this, I needed: a plastic mesh (4 sq.m.), 5 bars of 25 × 50 mm, wood screws, a floorboard, sawdust (at least 6 bags of sugar).

Construction

Assembled a pyramid-shaped frame (the slope gives the structure stability): the base is 100×30 cm, the top is 100×10 cm.

I closed one of the sides tightly with a film and filled the frame with sawdust, tamping and spilling them with water for better shrinkage (after I closed the other side). Such a substrate is cheap, retains moisture well, there are no pathogens of onion diseases and onion flies in it, and after extracting vegetables, sawdust can be composted.

Landing

The finished vertical bed was installed in a film heated greenhouse (it was in March-April). The bulbs were planted parallel to the ground. With this placement, the feather bends more strongly at the exit of the bulb, which is not terrible if you grow greens for yourself. If for sale, then to reduce the bending, place the bulbs with a slight slope (from 30 to 45 degrees) — this will significantly improve the quality of the pen.

Watering

If you have experience with drip irrigation, you can upgrade my vertical garden bed by placing a drip irrigation tape in the sawdust thickness, and thereby maintain the necessary humidity without eroding the substrate. Or water in the usual way. I took warm water — the roots absorb it more intensively. Fed in the same way as onions in ordinary beds. As a result, the task was successfully completed! Depending on the timing of planting and growing conditions, the distillation of greenery takes 1.4-1.8 months.

Knobby tubers of jerusalem artichoke, or ground pear, can be used instead of potatoes. This vegetable is suitable for those who want to lose weight, but not everyone will like it. To begin with, try planting one or two tubers. However, patients with diabetes do not have to choose much, so they can safely include Jerusalem artichoke in their diet. There is no starch in it, which is so dangerous for diabetics.
Jerusalem artichoke can be eaten raw in salads, and cooked in a variety of dishes.

The stems of the unpretentious and hardy Jerusalem artichoke grow up to 3 m in height, they form a good curtain from prying eyes or a screen to protect from the wind.
But it is not recommended to plant Jerusalem artichoke next to lower plants, otherwise they will be shaded.
Jerusalem artichoke inflorescences are similar to small sunflower inflorescences.
For planting, choose healthy tubers, by the way, even tubers cut into pieces if they are suitable for planting with an eye, Jerusalem artichoke bushes can grow perfectly from them.
A good time for planting is both autumn and early spring.
It may take 2-4 weeks from planting to the first shoots, the harvest of tubers from one plant is 1-2 kg, the time from planting to harvesting Jerusalem artichoke is 40-50 weeks. Jerusalem artichoke is an easy-to-cultivate plant, but its stems, swaying in the wind, may need support.

Jerusalem artichoke is undemanding to the soil, but it grows worse on acidified soils and in low-lying areas where water stagnates in spring. Jerusalem artichoke culture can be used to develop heavy soils. Before planting Jerusalem artichoke, the plot is shifted from autumn, compost is applied on poor soils.

Jerusalem artichoke tubers are planted in trenches. Then carefully fill the trench with earth and make a small ridge over the tubers with a rake. The planting depth of Jerusalem artichoke is 15 cm, the distance between tubers in a row is 45 cm, the distance between rows is 1 m. Jerusalem artichoke can be cleaned both in autumn and spring: in September - November or in April - May next year.

Jerusalem artichoke tubers

Caring for Jerusalem artichoke is not difficult. Watering is necessary in severe drought.
It is very convenient to plant Jerusalem artichoke along the fence.
In autumn, after the leaves wither, the stems of Jerusalem artichoke are cut at a height of 30 cm above the soil level. Jerusalem artichoke can be safely left to grow in one place for the winter, as it can withstand frosts up to -40.
In vegetable gardens, as a rule, unsorted jerusalem artichoke with white skin is grown. If you have the opportunity, purchase varietal planting material.

FUSEAU: This variety is worth growing. Tubers are white, elongated, with a more even surface than those of non-cultivar plants. The stems do not exceed 2 m in height.

DWARF SUN RAY: Tubers with a white skin that can not be removed. The variety is more cold-resistant than the previous one, but inferior to it in taste.

Problems of jerusalem artichoke cultivation

Jerusalem artichoke gets sick very rarely. But still there are possible diseases.
White rot or sclerotiniosis damages the bases of Jerusalem artichoke stems, as a result of which a white coating of mold forms on the stems. Black growths form inside the affected stems. Plants with such signs are immediately removed and burned.

In addition to the health benefits, Jerusalem artichoke will perfectly decorate your garden, because it blooms with beautiful yellow flowers.

There are two ways of vegetative reproduction of clematis. In the first case, a new plant takes root until it is separated from the old bush (bush division, sprouting, layering), in the second case, the roots of the shoot or part of it develop after separation from the parent plant (cuttings, grafting).

Reproduction of clematis by dividing the bush

Usually, after 5-6 years of cultivation, both species and hybrid clematis are successfully propagated in this way. Old plants are divided in autumn 1 -1.5 months before the soil freezes and in spring before budding or at the beginning of growth.

It must be remembered that the delenki of old bushes do not take root well. Therefore, in advance, about a year in June, the base of the bush should be covered with humus so that young roots form on the shoots.

The bush should be carefully dug out, trying not to damage the roots, shaken off the ground or washed in water and divided into parts. But so that each has a shoot with one or more buds at the base and a developed root system. If necessary, I use a knife.

Sometimes it is very difficult to dig up an old bush entirely. In this case, I dig it out from one side and cut off part of the rhizome. I pour fresh, fertile soil into the resulting hole.

Next year I repeat this operation — only from the opposite side. From one bush in this way, you can get from 2 to 6 new plants that will bloom in the first year.

Reproduction of clematis by hoeing

If clematis are planted with deepening, it is quite simple to propagate them by hoeing. I carry out this operation in autumn or early summer, when the shoots reach at least 40 cm in height.

The clematis bush is hoed with fertile soil (10-12 cm). In the summer, during the growth, I fence with boards so that the water does not spread out to the sides and as the shoots grow, I pour the earth.

I cut off the rooted ones next spring. The number of new plants depends on the number of shoots.

Propagation of clematis by layering

For clematis I use several types of layering: vertical, horizontal, air. The most simple in execution are horizontal. They can be laid in the fall before the shelter or in the spring, at the end of May.

To do this, next to the bush, I dig a groove up to 1.5-2 m long and 5-10 cm deep. I carefully put the shoot into it and make sure that the top with well-developed buds remains on the surface, otherwise the shoot will not germinate.

Now he needs regular watering and loosening of the soil. Rooted shoots are separated in autumn or next spring.

I clean them from the ground, cut them into separate pieces between the nodes and plant them in a permanent place or grow them (depending on the degree of root development).

Propagation of clematis by cuttings

The most widespread method of reproduction of clematis is considered to be green cuttings. Its timing depends on the phase of plant development. Cuttings harvested during budding before flowering are the most viable.

At this time, in plants, natural biostimulants of rooting are in optimal concentration and are more active.

You can cuttings later: hybrid plants — until the beginning of August, small—flowered species - until mid-August. But the survival rate in this case is reduced.

Cuttings are best cut in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening hours to protect the shoots from dehydration. I cut them over the first or second real sheet.

It is not recommended to cut more than a third of the shoots from one bush at the same time. Parts of them for cutting are uneven. The most suitable for harvesting cuttings is the middle part of the shoot with well-developed vegetative buds.

The upper part of it, which usually has no buds, usually does not take root. The lower part of the shoot is usually lignified and takes root worse.

When propagating valuable varieties or using strongly woody shoots, the results will be better if the stalk is completely split vertically in the middle. It turns out two new ones.

Clematis cuttings with one node take root well. With a sharp knife, I make an oblique cut at a distance of 4-6 cm under the node and straight — above it by 2 cm. To reduce evaporation, you can shorten the large leaves by half.

To accelerate the rooting of cuttings, I treat them with growth regulators (heteroauxin, kornevin or sodium humate): I immerse them in solution for 10-12 hours for 1/3. After that, I rinse them with clean water and plant them in the cuttings.

As the latter, you can use greenhouses, greenhouses, tunnels and even pots for indoor plants. The best substrate for rooting is a mixture of sand and peat (1:1 or 1:2).

Cuttings take root better in diffused light. Therefore, in cultivation facilities I whiten the glass, and under the film I put a thin light fabric, for example, muslin, gauze or spandbond. A gasket made of such material protects the cuttings from overheating.

I plant them at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other and 10-12 cm between the rows. I bury the knot by 1 cm, which protects the kidneys from drying out.

The main conditions for the survival of clematis cuttings: uniform humidity of the substrate at a temperature of 18-22 degrees, and high humidity. I spray the plantings 2-3 times a day, and on hot days — 4-5 times.

I water it daily, and after a month — 1-2 times a week. They take root in 50-60 days. Until spring, I leave them in the cuttings, covering them with peat or sawdust for the winter, and a leaf on top.

In the spring, I plant them in ridges for growing. In autumn, I move the plants to a permanent place. The rootability of green clematis cuttings varies depending on the weather and the variety from 60 to 95%.

Small-flowered varieties and wild species can be propagated by lignified shoots, which are usually pruned and destroyed in autumn.

From them I cut cuttings 7-10 cm long with one node and treat them with a root formation stimulator. After that, I plant it in the cuttings.

For the winter, I fall asleep with peat and cover it with plastic wrap. In summer, I shade the planted cuttings and moisturize them regularly.

Shoots as they grow, I pinch over the second node, which stimulates more intensive root growth. The rooting capacity of lignified cuttings is about 60%.

Good results are obtained with spring cuttings. Broken out about the middle of May, the overgrown shoots are planted in a shady place, pinching the tops and covering with glass jars. By autumn, almost all cuttings have good roots.

Reproduction of clematis in water

Some growers root large-flowered clematis in the budding phase in water. Cuttings with one internode are taken. Water is poured into the vessel to such a level that their ends are in it.

The vessel itself is wrapped in light-proof paper and placed in a shaded warm place, constantly adding water to the initial level.

Root formation lasts 35-70 days. As soon as they reach a length of 3-5 cm, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or in a pot, providing constant and increased humidity. Otherwise, the dormant buds in the leaf axils dry up and the "seedlings" die.

1. Too deep planting
   The "back" of the rhizome, planted too deep, is not warmed by the sun. When planting irises, pay attention to the root neck protruding from the ground by a third. In no case should it be covered with soil. Otherwise, the plant will develop and increase the "tops", but such an iris may never bloom.

2. Little light
   Irises love sunny areas. Only there they are able to show their flowering in all its glory. In the shade, they also easily take root, but you can not wait for them to bloom.

3. In tightness and resentment
   As I wrote above, irises grow very quickly, capturing more and more space around. After three or four years, they are so tightly pressed against each other that there is no room for the release of peduncles. Therefore, bushes at the age of four or five years must be divided and planted.

4. Varietal features
   There are thousands of varieties and varieties of irises today, and each has its own characteristics. Take, for example, Siberian irises - they grow and develop well on acidic soils. And for the bearded, acidic soils are certain death. Therefore, before planting a new variety or species, ask yourself: what kind of soil he prefers, what should be the illumination, whether fertilizing is needed and what should be the soil moisture. Only then will you be able to figure out which varieties will not get along side by side, and which will perfectly complement each other with joint flowering.
   (Material provided by the Garden, vegetable Garden group: vk.com/intergarden )

5. Wintering - everyone has their own
   Some species and varieties are very hardy. For example, Siberian irises do not need shelter. And delicate bearded irises of Dutch varieties can freeze, so in regions with harsh winters they need timely shelter. If this plant is covered too early, it can get stuck, too late - freeze and not bloom next year.

Many readers have heard or read about gumi. However, most people don't know much about this plant. I want to "introduce" you to gumi, and I think that even those who grow it in the backyard will learn a lot of new and interesting things about this plant.

Economic significance

Gumi (Japanese name) is a promising fruit, ornamental, honey-bearing and medicinal plant. It is characterized by rapid growth, rapid fruitfulness, abundant annual fruiting, resistance to damage by pests, to disease.
Gumi fruits have an original taste, they contain 11-18% sugars, 1.5-2.3% organic acids, 0.18-0.46% pectins, a significant amount of biologically active substances: carotene 13.2-19.6 mg / 100 g of raw matter, P-active compounds (catechins 92-210 mg / 100 g, anthocyanins 12-30, leucoanthocyanins 150-478, flavonols 20-45 mg / 100 g), tannins (0.3-0.5%, ascorbic acid 16-33 mg . In the leaves, the content of ascorbic acid reaches 245 mg%, so they can be used as a vitamin supplement.

Gumi is a close relative of sea buckthorn, gumi fruits and seeds contain about 25% oil, which contains more essential fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic) than sea buckthorn oil. The fruits are a therapeutic and prophylactic agent, have a tonic and preventive effect, improve blood circulation, are used in oriental medicine for the treatment of various diseases. They are used fresh, dried, frozen.

Origin of the Gumi

Gumi (botanical name - multicolored olive) grows naturally in Japan, China and Korea. During the Second World War, it was brought to the south of Sakhalin Island, where favorable climatic conditions turned out to be and the plant quickly acclimatized there. In Russia, T.G. Voronova was the first to pay attention to this plant 50 years ago. Gumi came to us from the Far East.

Morphological characteristics

What is gumi? This is a deciduous shrub up to 3 m high with a different crown (from erect to spreading). Annual shoots are reddish-brown, covered with spots, perennial - gray-brown, very branched, sometimes with thorns. During one growing season, it forms shoots of the second order, as a result, the crown of the plant is quickly formed.
More interesting: vk.com/dachavsem The leaves are whole-edged, elongated, appear silvery from above due to a fluffy coating, covered with brown veins from below. The fruit is a drupe, rounded, elongated, rarely cylindrical, 1-2 g, on a long stalk, similar to a cherry. Ripe fruits (bright red with silvery-white spots, juicy, sour-sweet or sweet to the taste. Inside there is a spindle-shaped bone with longitudinal grooves.

The multi-flowered olive forms a powerful, well-branched surface root system, which does not have a clearly defined main root and consists of a large number of mochkovat roots located in the soil layer of 5-40 cm. The greatest saturation with roots is within the projection of the crown of the bush. The diameter of the root system exceeds the diameter of the crown by 1.3-2.1 times. A characteristic feature of the root system of olives is the presence of bubbles with nitrogen-fixing bacteria on the roots. In this regard, plants are less fastidious to soil conditions. Bubble formations occur at the end of the first year of life. In old bushes, they often merge and form cluster-like concentrations, the diameter of which can reach 6 cm (some gardeners believe that this is root cancer).

Choosing a place to land

Olives can be grown on different soils. Nevertheless, the best for it are soils of light mechanical composition, with good aeration, provided with nutrients and moisture. Heavy clay soils are less suitable. Regarding the acidity of the soil, the olive prefers neutral or slightly acidic soils. Acidic soils need to be limed before planting. The lime rate depends on the pH of the soil and averages 300-500 g/m2.

The place for planting olives is selected taking into account the lighting. Gumi needs good lighting, can withstand slight shading. In the shade of the olive, although it bears fruit, but its yield decreases, the fruits are formed smaller, more sour and tart to the taste. In addition, the activity of bees decreases in such plantings. And this is important because the harvest of gumi largely depends on visiting its bushes during flowering by bees and other pollinating insects.

You can plant gumi seedlings in spring and autumn. The spring term is more favorable than the autumn one. In spring, they are planted at the end of March - in early April - before budding. The distance between the bushes should be at least 3 m. Planting pits are dug to a depth of 50-60 cm, with a diameter of 50-70 cm. 10-12 kg of humus mixed with the upper fertile layer of soil is introduced into the pit.
Seedlings are planted in a permanent place at the age of two. The height of standard seedlings is 100-120 cm, they have 3-5 skeletal branches with a diameter of at least 10-12 mm. The best precursors for olives are dogwood, peach, cherry. Re-growing it in the same place is undesirable.

Care of plantings

After planting, the aboveground part of the seedlings is cut at a height of 50-70 cm to balance the aboveground part and the root system, to get a branched bush. The root neck is deepened by 5-6 cm during planting . The soil around the seedling is compacted. The plant is well watered (15-20 liters of water per bush) in autumn 1-2 times, in spring 3-4. The soil surface around the bush is mulched with peat or compost - this helps to preserve moisture.

The care of the olive consists in pruning, removing weeds, loosening the soil, fertilizing, watering.

At a young age, olive plants are sensitive to a lack of moisture, especially if they grow in open places. In general, gumi is quite a drought-resistant plant. Even in summer, due to the prolonged absence of rains (more than a month), we noted only a slight decrease in turgor in the leaves.

Since olives have regular fruiting, it is advisable to feed adult plants annually during fruit growth (II-III decades of June) with a full mineral fertilizer at the rate of 80-100 g per bush. In autumn, they are limited to feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30-35 g / m2). These fertilizers provide the plant with nutrients and increase its winter hardiness.

The system of cultivation of the soil should be aimed at preserving moisture and destroying weeds. Loosening of the soil is necessarily carried out in the spring and 3-5 times as necessary during the growing season. The depth of cultivation of the soil should not exceed 10-15 cm in the aisles and 4-5 cm in the trunk circle.

Pruning is carried out in spring (the second half of March - the beginning of April). The main task in the formation and pruning of olive bushes in the first years after planting is to stimulate the growth of the lower branches, which in the future will be dominant and will form the basis of the bush. It is necessary to make sure that the crown is not lopsided and very thickened, remove the competitor shoots. The central conductors of the skeletal branches should be approximately the same height, but higher than the lateral branches by 10-15 cm.

Further pruning of bushes is reduced to the removal of dry and frozen branches, thinning of the crown. It should be borne in mind that the multi-flowered olive is characterized by a high shoot-forming ability, therefore, the crown of the vast majority of bushes is too thickened, which leads to a decrease in yield. In such bushes, weak and superfluous growth shoots should be cut out, if necessary, 2-3-year-old branches should be removed. More interesting: vk.com/dachavsem It should be remembered that with thinning pruning, the branches of the olive are cut out at the base or transferred to the side branches, and not shortened, the shortened branches will thicken the crowns even more. To change the direction of growth of branches, pruning is used for "translation" - cut to a conveniently placed side branch.

Starting from 8-10 years of age, 1-2 weakly productive branches are removed from plants in the spring to replace them with young ones. Further pruning is aimed at supporting good growth of branches, improving crown lighting, removing dry, frozen and broken branches. It is advisable to limit the height of bushes to 2.0-2.5 m for convenient harvesting. When the bush reaches the desired height, the central

the conductors of skeletal branches are cut into lateral branches. On the side branches, in turn, all strong branches that grow vertically upwards are removed.

In 15-20-year-old plants, the main task is to ensure an optimal level of growth processes, the intensity of which decreases with age in plants. To do this, use thinning pruning. Remove dry and damaged branches, and those that intersect, as well as those directed to the middle of the crown. In fruit-bearing plants with weakened growth, 3-4-year-old branches are shortened.

Reproduction

Olives can be propagated by seeds and vegetatively. To obtain olive seedlings, you should use the newly collected seeds and stratification should be carried out in two stages: five months at a temperature of 18-22 ° C and four months at a temperature of 1-4 ° C. The substrate is a mixture of sand + sawdust (1:1) or sand + peat (1:1). Dry seeds of the multicolored olive need to be stratified in the same substrates for five months (in the basement or refrigerator) at a temperature of 1-4 ° C. It should be known that the germination of dry gumi seeds decreases sharply and is about 10%. In addition, during seed propagation, splitting is observed, i.e. seedlings do not inherit the properties of the parent plant.

To preserve valuable biological and economic characteristics of the best breeding forms and varieties, it is better to use vegetative reproduction. Semi-woody, woody and combined cuttings can be used. Cuttings should be carried out in the second half of June in closed ground conditions. Since the olive belongs to hard-rooting plants, it is mandatory to use root formation stimulants.

Secret 1: Planting As usual, everything starts with planting material. If something is wrong with it, you can not count on the harvest. Therefore, for some time now I have been growing garlic in a two-year culture: in the first year, single-teeth are obtained from air bulbs, and in the second year they already give strong and healthy garlic heads with large teeth.

I sow bulbochki always under winter, simultaneously with the planting of garlic. Theoretically, this can be done in the spring — the single-teeth ripen quickly, and they have enough time. Only here it is problematic to save bulbochki seeds in winter at home. And with winter sowing and planting, there is only one danger: not to guess with the deadline.

If planted too early, during thaws or a prolonged warm autumn, garlic can go into growth. As a rule, it does not die at the same time, but it weakens, and it no longer gives a good harvest. If you are late with planting, garlic will not have time to take root and prepare for winter, which will also inevitably affect the results next season. I sincerely do not advise you to navigate by the calendar: our climate is becoming more and more unpredictable from year to year, nature presents surprise after surprise, and what was considered an axiom 10 years ago may not work now. We have to follow the weather forecast every autumn, look closely at natural phenomena, trying to guess the right dates by signs. From the moment of planting winter garlic until the onset of persistent cold weather, about a month should pass — that's what we proceed from in the calculations. A bed with planted garlic is not bad to mulch with peat, cover with a lapnik or straw. By itself, garlic winters well, but lapnik will help to delay snow, and this is not only shelter from frost, but also moisture, so necessary in spring.

Secret 2:
about the care, or "as you trample, so you will break" To be honest, garlic does not require much care. But, as in the case of onions, there are activities that should not be neglected: loosening, weeding and watering. If the soil is fertile enough, filled with everything necessary in advance, you can do without fertilizing (on a well-treated, fertilized loam, I did not additionally feed garlic during the season, but I did not have to complain about the harvest). With increased acidity of the soil, it is useful to pour ash on the bed; if you notice that the surface of the earth "turns green", turns sour, it must be done.

Weeding is especially important in spring, while the seedlings are very young. Weeds are rampant at this time, and can take away from garlic the light and nutrition it needs. Then there is usually enough periodic loosening — at the same time the grass is removed. Garlic is very responsive to loosening, it does not like compacted soil. But watering is a delicate matter. If there is not enough moisture, the leaves will turn yellow and dry ahead of time. But excess moisture provokes rot, and the taste of the teeth deteriorates: they become watery. And then such garlic is stored worse. We start watering when the spring moisture leaves the soil, and we finish it a month before harvesting. The rest of the time — according to the weather and needs. So I would be glad to write specifically how many times you need to pour garlic and in what quantity — but my experience says that there is no such rule. For example, even in the current hot and dry summer, my friend practically did not have to water the beds on her low—lying plot with moisture—intensive peat soil - and I spent the whole summer on my sands with a hose: in the evening you will pour abundantly, and by the morning - the Sahara Desert… So all the norms here turn out to be akin to the "average temperature in the hospital")) Yes, and don't forget to carefully break out the flower arrows as they appear. But not all! We will certainly leave a few pieces: for seeds and as "beacons", by which we will determine the harvest period.

Secret 3:
crop rotation as prevention Garlic is often affected by diseases and pests. And pathogens and pest larvae in the soil are often preserved. And planting a plant in the same place for several years in a row (or planting it after crops subject to the same misfortunes), we are taking a great risk. It's like a lottery: either he will get sick, or the problems will be avoided. Do we need it?.. If we want a good harvest of healthy garlic, it should not be returned to its former place earlier than in 3-4 years. Moreover, if there is still a problem — the affected heads were found during harvesting, it would be nice to do soil improvement. Well, at least sow siderates — the same mustard, for example, or plant marigolds with calendula. Let me remind you that garlic should not be planted after garlic, onions and potatoes. It is possible and necessary — after legumes, cucumbers, cauliflower and early white cabbage.

Secret 4:
harvesting Like onions, garlic is very important to remove in time and dry well. Winter garlic is generally stored unimportantly, and if you still tighten or hurry up with cleaning, but do not really dry the heads, we will ruin all the results of our labors with our own hands

Do not neglect the weather forecast: if heavy and prolonged rains are promised, it is advisable to dig up garlic before they begin. And the heat is able to accelerate maturation, as this summer, for example. Again, as in the case of onions, it is better to remove garlic a little earlier than to overdo it in the garden. Overripe heads crumble, fall apart into individual teeth — they are no longer subject to storage, only for processing. On the other hand, if you hurry too much, immature garlic will wither very quickly — young heads can be removed selectively, for winter preparations, but not for storage. How to guess? It is believed that a sign of maturation is the yellowing of its leaves by about a quarter of the length from the top. But this is an unreliable guideline: leaves can turn yellow from drought, from lack of nutrition, from diseases or damage to the root system, from uncomfortable conditions (too dense or waterlogged soil, increased soil acidity, and so on). You can focus on the duration of the growing season: usually winter garlic ripens 100-110 days after the emergence of seedlings. But, depending on the variety, there are also possible options.

I usually look at the flower stalks. Bulbochki, while they are not ripe, are "packed" in cases — as soon as this shell bursts, it's time to remove the garlic. But this summer, this landmark has also failed: the heads have already ripened by the end of July — their outer shells have dried up, — and the bulbuls are just now, a week and a half or two later, the shells begin to open…

I have always (as well as other summer residents) wanted to grow something on the plot that would surprise my neighbors. I live in the Moscow region and somehow read an article that it is possible to grow groundnut peanuts in the Moscow region. It was at the end of March and without thinking twice I went to our market, where I always buy nuts for food. And she thought, well, how long have these nuts been lying, probably need a fresh harvest? Therefore, leaving 1% on the fact that something can germinate from them, I still proceeded to the following actions. I put each nut between two wet cotton pads and what was my surprise that on the second day I already saw the sprouts.
Then I planted them in pots with loose earth and had to wait a short time for green shoots ....in my opinion, similar to clover or legumes.
Then, in mid-May, I planted these seedlings in the garden under a covering material (spandbond). I didn't look there for almost a month and a half, and when I saw the flowering of small yellow flowers, then after 10 days I began to hoe these bushes like potatoes.
The other day I already dug it out and the result exceeded all my expectations. From 3 bushes I collected 124 pieces of nuts, and what delicious!!!!!
So I decided that next year I will plant more. And you try it, you won't regret it. Good luck to you at your dacha.
As you can see, there are no difficulties to grow groundnuts at your favorite dacha. We will be glad if you share your successes with us.

梅丽莎完全没有批评。 她在其他蔬菜旁边感觉很好，她试图接管他们的领土。 这正在成为许多园丁的问题。 我找到了她的解决方案！

4月中旬，梅丽莎种子播种在土壤中。 但不是去花园。 我有一个旧的大锅用于此目的。 也可以使用不必要的桶。 我在盘子底部打小洞，倒入泥土并在那里播种。 我每天一开始都喝一点水。 一旦幼苗出现，我就减少浇水–我在土壤干燥时湿润土壤。 我不使用任何肥料，梅丽莎也不怕害虫。 她自己也不怕我登陆。 受锅或桶的空间限制，它长成郁郁葱葱的灌木丛，并"忘记"其以前的侵略性习惯。